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Alps Trilogy

12 day trip | July-September 

Details





Contact us to sign up and plan your trip!

smartguides@mac.com

tel: +1-206-925-3991
 

Three of the most famous peaks in the Alps: Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, and Eiger.  They are legendary in the history of Alpine climbing.  The Mont Blanc is the highest peak in Western Europe at 4810m (15,771ft), the Matterhorn is one of the most stunning rock spires in the world, and the Eiger is a foreboding chunk of rock that was the last of the great challenges to be climbed in the alps.  

 

All of the variables of weather, conditions, logistics, and your endurance of course have to come together to summit all of these peaks in 12 days. We’ll take care of the logistics, you take care of your training, and we’ll let nature help us out with the rest. The trick is to be flexible with your itinerary. 



 

Time & Dates

This trip is best done between June and September.  Because we only do trips on a private basis, you can choose which dates work best for you.  The shortest itinerary is 12 days, but this is a very compressed timeline for 3 major peaks.  We recommend allowing additional days for rest and weather if possible. 

 

 

Itinerary for 12 days

Day 0: Arrive in Chamonix, France

There are many easy transfers from the Geneva Airport.

We will meet at the hotel for an evening gear check.

 

Day 1: Acclimatization Climb

Climb the Pointe Lachenal or the Aiguille d’Entreves and spend the night in the Cosmiques Refuge to start acclimatizing.

 

Day 2: More climbing in Chamonix

Climb the Arete des Cosmiques from the refuge, return to Chamonix.  Possibly do some rock climbing at Les Gaillands in the afternoon.

 

Day 3: Approach the Gouter Hut

Hike and climb to the Gouter hut on Mont Blanc.

 

Day 4: Climb Mont Blanc

Climb to the summit of Mont Blanc from the Gouter hut and then return to Chamonix.

 

Day 5: Travel to Zermatt

We will take the train from Chamonix to Zermatt. 

 

Day 6: Training climb in Zermatt

We will climb either the technical, mixed ice and rock of the Breithorn Half Traverse, or the rock climbing on the Riffelhorn and return to Zermatt that evening.

 

Day 7: Approach to the Hornli Hut

We will have a relaxed morning before hiking up to the Hornli Hut on the Matterhorn.

 

Day 8: Climb the Matterhorn

We will have an early start for the long, technical climb of the Matterhorn.

We will descend all the way back to Zermatt and stay at the hotel.

 

Day 9: Travel to Wengen

We will take the train from Zermatt to Wengen.

 

Day 10: Approach the Mittelegihutte

We will take the Jungfraujoch train up to the Eismeer Station, climb out the rock wall, across the glacier, and up to the hut.

 

Day 11: Climb the Eiger

We will climb the West Ridge of the Eiger and return to Wengen.

 

Day 12: Weather day

Extra day in Wengen to be used for the Eiger in case of bad weather.

 



*This is a tentative itinerary, and plans may change along the way due to changes in weather, mountain conditions and any other unforeseen circumstances.

 

 

Price Description

Contact us for a quote.

 

 

FAQs

Participant Requirements:

This is a long and arduous trip with lots of technical rock, ice, and mixed climbing.  You must have previous experience climbing at altitudes above 4000m (14,000ft).  You should have rock climbing experience up to 5.7 (5a) on top rope, and extensive experience scrambling on moderate rock terrain in boots.  You should also be comfortable using crampons and ice axe in steep ice, snow, and mixed terrain.

 

Expected Weather:

Weather in the Alps can vary from hot and sunny to cold and stormy very suddenly.  The temperatures can fluctuate between highs in the 70’s and 80’s (Farenheit) during the day to lows below freezing at night.  It is important to be prepared for all types of mountain weather.

 

Huts:

The mountain huts in the Alps are essentially high alpine hotels.  The huts on this climb are busy, but very nice.  Dinners and breakfasts are included in the hut fee, and there is usually a good selection of drinks and snacks to buy if you wish.  Most of these huts will not have running water, so you will have to purchase any water you need.

 

Insurance:

There are 2 different types of insurance: Travel or Trip Cancellation insurance and Rescue insurance. Typical travel insurance will cover the cost of the trip if you have to cancel before or during for any reason.  There are many companies that offer this type of insurance such as Travelguard and Travelex. You can get rescue insurance through an Alpine Club or your own provider.

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